Something Needs To Change...

The tragedies in third world countries, including the Bangladesh factory collapse (April 2013) and factory fire (November 2012) show that something needs to change in the clothing industry.

These third world factories supply a number of companies in the west, such as Walmart, Gap, H&M, Primark and more. The workers in these factories work extremely long hours and get paid an absolute minimum. 

The factories the West's garments are made in are extremely hazardous and would not pass the West's Health and Safety laws. So why should they be expectable in the third world where clothes are made for OUR benefit?

The big companies that use these factories should insist on independent oversights of the working condition. Just because they're out of sight, they shouldn't be out of mind. Companies have 'rejected' this in the past because of costs but isn't it worth it? Organisers for independent inspection say that they could be funded for as little as 10% per item. A small price to pay which would make minimal dents in companies billion pound profits.

Reference: http://www.thenewstribune.com/2013/04/29/2576913/low-wage-workers-pay-steep-price.html

Dhaka Bangladesh Factory Fire, Nov 2012

While researching into the Bangladesh factory collapse (24th April 2013) I found out about this also recent clothes factory fire which broke out in November last year.

Apparently fires in these types of clothing factories are very common in Bangladesh and so companies should really be putting pressure on the local businesses to improve safety.

Reports said that over 100 people died. 

The fire started on the bottom floor of the factory which trapped many victims. Officials believe it was an electrical short circuit which caused the disaster. The factory had no fire exits already making the factory an unsafe place to work. Workers had been unable to escape through narrow exits

Text reference: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-20482273
Image references:http://womennewsnetwork.net/2012/11/25/garment-fire-bangladesh-crisis/
                          http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/nov/25/bangladesh-factory-fire-dhaka

Bangladesh Clothing Factory Collapses

In the last couple of weeks (24th April) a clothing factory in Bangladesh has collapsed which is something that a lot say could have been avoided. The workers in the factory sew clothes for companies in the west, one of those being Primark.

Workers had complained about the state of the building. There were huge cracks in the building but the workers were told to ignore the cracks, continuing work as normal.

"The deaths as a result of the collapsed building in Bangladesh were a tragedy but not an accident," says Murray Worthy from the charity War on Want. He argues that the level of neglect and lack of regulation in the industry led to the disaster at the factory.

Campaigners believe that the rapid expansion of the clothing industry (stemming from issues such as fast and throw away fashion) plays a large role in what has happened.

Sam Mahers is from Labour Behind the Label and says that it's common for these factory buildings to have illegal floors added. One minister alleged that the whole building had been illegally constructed.

Labour Behind the Label is currently trying to get people to sign up to the Bangladesh Fire and Building Safety Agreement. This is an agreement which will include building inspections, a review of safety standards and training in workers' rights. So far the owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger have signed it.

Supervisors of factories in Bangladesh monitor their staff very closely, even down to how long their toilet breaks are.

The textile industry in Bangladesh is hugely important for the company as shown in the chart below

The countries exports have increased hugely over the last 30years, mainly because of the country's cheap labour. The textile employees are among the lowest paid in the world. This is apparently the only way that Bangladesh can stay in competition with China and Vietnam.

Primark say they had "been engaged for several years with NGOs and other retailers to review the Bangladeshi industry approach to factory standards. Primark will push for this review to also include building integrity".

For many this is too late as over 400 people have died from this incident.

Companies are beginning to look more closely at their suppliers due to a number of campaigns on the issue of slavery and around factory workers. Consumers could also help push this with thinking about why a piece of clothing is so cheap? Is someone else suffering for it? It is primarily down to the companies to change the way they operate not for the consumers and most people in the UK would rather pay a higher cost for clothing than think there are people suffering for it.

Reference: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-22296645

Anti-Slavery

Research from Anti-Slavery International has found that top UK high street brands are selling clothing made by girls in slavery in Southern India.

The research uncovered that young, unmarried girls and women from lower classed families  are forced to work in the spinning mills and garment factories of five Indian clothing manufacturers that supply major western clothing retail brands. Export data was found which confirmed that dozens of major western brands had purchased garments from these manufacturers.


The workers are cheated into slavery. Parents agree to three year contracts for their daughters to work on the assumption they will receive their promised pay and the amount that they receive upon finishing their contract. The final bonus is used against the workers to prevent them demanding better working conditions or leaving.


The owners of the factories go against local customs, forcing the confinement of the women to hostels as a way of keeping them 'safe'
The workers are allowed a weekly five minute phone call to family which is monitored by security staff. If parents visit, they can only speak to their daughter under the watch of a security guard like in a prison. Apart from this, no other outside communication is allowed.
In most of the mills, there is no weekend breaks and if there is a day off, the women have to stay in the factory or mill compound. In some of the mills and factories, workers can have up to six days leave but have to work an extra month to complete their contract for each additional day they take off.

Many of the workers suffer poor health from poor food diets, poor hygiene and the hazards associated with working with cotton. Many workers get TB or ill from cotton in their lungs, some die from this lack of health care.

Workers are often not routinely paid, in one mill the workers were promised the equivalent of £52 a month for 48 hour weeks but only get £24 a month for 76 hour weeks.
Other factory workers are forced to work 12 hours Monday to Friday and 16 hours on Saturday to be allowed Sunday off.

Reference:http://www.antislavery.org/english/what_we_do/programme_and_advocacy_work/slavery_on_the_high_street.aspx

Modern Day Slavery

I found this video of a TED talk by Lisa Kristine, Jan 2012. Lisa is a photographer who travelled the world for two years, documenting the harsh realities of 'modern day slaves'.

Some Key Notes:

• “There are more than 27 million people enslaved in the world today — that's double the amount of people taken from Africa during the entire trans-Atlantic slave trade.”
• "I knew slavery existed in the world, but not to such a degree...I felt ashamed at my own lack of knowledge of this autrousity in my lifetime"
• 150 years ago, an agricultural slave would cost $50,000 in todays money, three times the annual salary of  an American worker, today they are enslaved for just $18
• Slavery generates profits of more the $13 Billion dollars world wide, each year.
• They are usually tricked with false promises of education and better jobs
• The goods that have enslaved people produce have value but the people producing them are disposable
• Slavery exists everywhere and is illegal everywhere
• Her camera got far better treatment than the people
• Some don't even know their enslaved as this has been the case all their lives, they have nothing to compare it too
• When the villagers claimed their freedom, the slave holders burned down all of their houses. 
• Some sex slaves were as young as 7 years old
• Between 100,000 and 300,000 American children are sold into sex slavery each year
• Children taken from their families and trafficked and vanished
• Met a slave who has known cruelty all his life and so passes that down to the younger slaves that he manages
• "He has a dream that he will become free and become educated with the help of local activists like free the slaves"

Textile Slavery, Uttar Pradesh, India. 10.14

• Visited villages were entire family's were enslaved in the silk trade.
• The mix dye in big barrels and submerge the silk in them up to their elbows, but the dye is toxic
• "We have no freedom, we hope still though that we can leave this house some day and go some place else where we actually get paid for our dying"

She took photographs like the one below as she wanted them to know we would be baring witness to them and try to make a difference in their lives. The images are not of issues, they are of people all deserving of the same rights and dignities in their lives. 

Reference: http://www.ted.com/talks/lisa_kristine_glimpses_of_modern_day_slavery.html

10 Facts About Modern Slavery

The Dollar A Day Dress

This film was created by BBC's Panorama in 2005. The team travelled the world to create the film which highlighted how the global garment industry can harm poor countries. 

Steve Bradshaw travelled from the Andrew to the Sahara collecting different fabrics for an outfit which was designed and made by a group of London Fashion Students, then was modelled at London Fashion Week. Each piece of fabric symbolised the plight of millions who live on less than a dollar a day to make the clothing that people all over the world wear.

Some people believe that the best way to help the poorer countries would be to 'wean' them off Western aid, ensuring a free and liberal world trade system. In this documentary, Panorama uncovers some of the harsh truths about the affect free trade has on the developing world and as to whether it would do more harm as well as more good.

Some of the findings:

• Cotton from Mali: Mali is one of the poorest countries in the world where farmers were encouraged to grow cotton. Cotton prices in the world market is dropping and the farmers are facing competition from heavily subsidised US cotton farmers. The West gives fifty billion dollars to Mali in aid, but three hundred billion dollars to its own farmers, giving Mali farmers no chance.
  The World Trade Organisation has ruled US subsidies illegal as it's a clear breach of the West's 'commitment' to free trade, however the US are yet to change this.
  As well as this, the famous blue robes of nomads in Timbuktu are no longer made from Malian cotton but from cotton textiles manufactured in China.
• Cotton from Uganda: In Uganda, most people wear second hand clothes which have been donated by the richer countries. This trade ruins the chances of growth for the local textile industry.
  Some Africans call the clothes "dead white men's clothes" not believing that people would willingly throw away such things. This comes back to an issue of sustainability. Until the country can phase out cast offs, their industry will not be able to provide the jobs and economic growth Uganda needs.
• Alpaca wool from Peru: In Peru, farmers are facing the loss of the country's most valuable resource as the quality and price of wool from the farmed Alpaca's suffers from poor breeding methods. The wool is supposed to be one of the worlds most luxurious and expensive fabrics.
  This is a great contrast to those farming the Alpaca's who are some of the poorest people in the world as the quality and price of the wool has taken a 'nose dive' due to poor breeding.
  More developed countries have also started to import some of Peru's genetic stock and began breeding selectively to produce finer wool which the Peruvian farmers can not live up to unless the richer countries share their breeding technology.
• Silk from Cambodia: In Cambodia, 1 in 5 people depend on the garment industry for their livelihood. The 250,000, mostly women workers, earn good wages and say they work in good conditions. The factories they work in are monitored by the International Labour Organisation supported by Cambodia's new labour union.
  The garment factories blossomed after Cambodia signed a global quota system, obliging rich nations to buy from countries with high labour standards, however in Jan 2005 the regulations ended and the country has to now compete with China whose workers wages and rights are unprotected.
  Cambodia's only chance of success is to market its labour standards to companies who are keen to protect their brand name. This would then give big companies a unique selling point, however the country could also likely to fall victim to "a race to the bottom" over labour standards.

I personally am quite shocked over the findings of this Panorama investigation. I can't quite believe how selfish the richer countries are and their unwillingness to really help the third world countries which have been and still are key to the fashion industry. High street fashion companies could make a real stand with partnering with a country such as Cambodia which has much higher labour standards than the countries they are currently opting to manufacture garments in. Why wouldn't a high street brand want to help and support a country where there is fair labour? It is all part of the selfishness, low costs at manufacturing provide companies with a bigger turn over. I'm sure, should this be campaigned about people would fight for the brands they are wearing to have been made in a country with high labour standards rather than made by sweatshop slaves and be prepared to pay more, knowing they are making an impact and changing the lives of thousands in the East.

Reference: news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/panorama/4314653.stm

Fashioning and Ethical Industry

Fashioning an Ethical Industry

Clothes are often manufactured in countries on the other side of the world from where they've been designed or destined to be marketed and sold. For these garment workers, poor working conditions and the abuse of their human rights are a day to day experience. Their lives could be changed for the better by changing standards within the garment industry.

Garment Workers

The part of the production cycle where the cloth is made into clothes is highly labour-intensive. This stage of production takes place in factories, workshops and living rooms across the world mostly by women.

Excessive working hours, forced overtime, lack of job security, poverty wages, trade union rights denied, poor health, exhaustion, sexual harassment and mental stress are all major problems in the stage.

This reality of life is a far cry from workers rights which are stipulated by law or the ethical commitments which are proclaimed by big brands and retailers

Global Production

Big brands and retailers have become 'global sourcing companies'. They are outsourcing the production of the goods they sell through complex international networks. Today, at least 50 countries look to garments to provide valuable exports and thousands of manufacturers are competing for a place in big brands and retailers supply chains.

Falling Prices

Prices on the hight street have fallen significantly in the last decade, partly due to 'value' retailers such as Primark and Asda George. 

There is now such a thing as 'fast fashion'. Shops used to change their collections a few times a year, now it's every 5 or 6 weeks after items have been seen on the catwalk, at minimal prices. These lower prices and faster orders mean that workers wages are lower, hours are longer and there are worsening working conditions.

Role of Consumers

Image is everything in the fashion industry, no company wants to be associated with sweatshops. From writing, emailing and phoning consumers have a real power to persuade brands to 'get their act together' and sort out their workers rights.

Over the last decade, people have been doing this beginning with the biggest global brands. Consumer pressure has meant that companies to get their act together. Now the agenda is wider, the whole industry needs to change, not just one company.

Marketing and Glamour

Catwalk glamour hides the sordid reality of working conditions around the world. Working late into the night, seven days a week for a few pence an hour is the reality and life of tens of millions of people sewing the clothes we wear.

Fashion Education

They activities of everyone who works in the industry, whether they're designers or buyers affects the workers all over the world. Students and graduates of fashion will be the next generation of industry players and have a critical role to play. They can have a real influence over the way the fashion business is managed in the future.

This research I have found highlights some of the key issues in the garment production chain. These issues can be addressed by the public and high street brands. The key issues are the 'fast, throw away fashion' providing a poorer quality of working life for those working on making the clothes from cloth.

Reference: fashioninganethicalindustry.org

                http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/static/machine_rollover.html

An Overview: No Sweat

No Sweat is an unprofitable organisation which is run entirely by volunteers. It aims to fight against sweatshop exploitation from the UK to all over the world with a HQ in London's Kings Cross.

"No Sweat is an activist, campaigning organisation, fighting sweatshop bosses, in solidarity with workers, worldwide."

Child labour, forced overtime, poverty wages, unsafe conditions, harassment of women workers and intimidation of trade unionists are unfortunately commonplace from small, backstreet sweatshops to some of the biggest corporations in the world.

No Sweat stands for:

* A living wage

* Safe working conditions

* Independent trade unions

No Sweat aims to:

* Make solidarity with sweatshop workers and organisations

* Help unionise sweatshops in Britain

* Publicise, expose and help stamp out sweatshop employment

In 2005, No sweat exposed Top Shop, reporting those involved to authorities.

Numerous events are held in London, Sheffield, Glasgow, Brighton and elsewhere in the UK. They show a presence in places such as Glastonbury Festival as well as running a successful comedy night each Thursday in London. The events aim to publicise the plight of sweatshop workers, adults and children, around the world as well as giving a platform to other groups.

In 2009, the BBC news and Times newspapers covered a No Sweat fashion parade outside Primark's flagship Oxford Street store. This event was organised in response to the companies awful labour policies and relationships with subsidiary contractors who make regular use of child labour.

Image Reference: No Sweat (organisation) Facebook page, No-Sweat-organisation

It is organisations like this which help to expose and publicise sweatshop/unethical factory conditions. Through exposure, companies begin to change their policies and structures through fear of loosing companies. These issue need to come to light in order for high street companies to change their ways. Maximum impact will force the necessary change.

References: www.nosweat.org.uk
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jjmEjyr54Y (VIDEO)

Global Organic Textile Standard

The GOTS is recognised as the world's leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibres. The standard complies to very high-level environmental criteria throughout the whole organic textiles supply change as well as requiring compliance with social criteria.

There are four organisations; OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan) which contribute their expertise in organic farming and enviromentally and socially responsible textile processing to GOTS as well as other international stakeholder organisations and experts.

Aim:
To define globally recognised requirements which ensure the organic status of textiles from the harvesting of raw materials to labelling. 

• Textiles miust contain a minimum of 70% organic fibres to become GOTS certified. 
• Chemical in inputs must meet certain enviromental and toxicological criteria
• The choice of accessories is limited in accordance with ecological aspects (zips etc.)
• A waste water treatment plant is required for any wet-processing unit and the processors must comply with the minimum social criteria

Mission Statement: 'Our Vision, Our Mission'

"Our vision is that organic textiles will become a significant part of everyday life, enhancing people’s lives and the environment."

"Organic production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic, persistent pesticides and fertilizers...we define organic textiles as being processed with the least possible impact and residual natural and synthetic chemical inputs." 

"We foster constant progress towards development of better textile processing methods."

"As a global network we have representatives working to promote GOTS around the world. For us, team spirit means more than mutual respect, understanding and trust; it means working together to achieve solutions. Respect for both people and the environment drives us."

I have outlined the pure basics of this standard, it was introduced in 2006 and is supported with the growth in consumption of organic fibres and demand for unified processing criteria from the industry to retail sector. The universal recognition had allowed processors and manufacturers to supply organic textiles with a certification which is accepted in all major markets.

The GOTS is actually visible in large-scale retailers and brand dealers, not just in natural textile shops. This proves that it is possible for high street shops and brands to change their production and manufacturing methods. Yes, it may take time but the long-term results would be worth it.

Reference: www.global-standard.org/

Soil Association

Who they are:

The soil association was founded in 1946. It was formed by a group of farmers, scientists and nutritionists. They could all see the direct connection between farming practices and some of the problems with animal, human and environmental health.

They are now the UK's leading membership charity which campaigns for healthy, humane and sustainable food, farming and land use. They have over 150 members of staff and work as certification inspectors across the country.

The charity is solely reliant on donations and the support of the members and public. They get no help from the government which surprises me. 

What they do:

Their work is split into three sections.

1) Facing the Future

The charity wants to ensure that organic systems can secure durable and humane solutions to the challenges that face the world through climate change and growing populations.

This means they want to help provide solutions in terms of the way people live, eat and farm as well as to help those grow with available resources. 

The charity is also trying to pioneer new solutions which will tackle climate change, support biodiversity, improve animal welfare and give fairness.

• Support innovative farming
• Supporting animal welfare
• Campaigning against genetically modified ingredients in human/animal food and against the commercial planting on GM crops
• Encouraging students to visit organic farms
• Campaigning against the escalation of industrial pig farming in the UK.
• Supporting organic farms which are a haven for wildlife
• Encouraging people to grow their own organic foods.

2) Good Food for All

Good food is food that is organically grown, minimally processes, fairly traded, fresh and seasonal. The charity believes this food should be a right, not a privilege.

The charity is working in schools through the Food for Life Partnership which is proving that it is possible to transform 'food culture' improving the life and health chances of thousands of children.

• Food for Life Partnership working in schools
• Helping source fresh, local and organic food with no cost impact in hospitals as many are falling short of acceptable standards
• Encouraging the public to eat at places with a full organic certification or those with the Food for Life catering mark
• Encouraging people to buy organic
• Campaigning for nursery children to have the same healthy, nutritious food that is served in schools
• In partnership with Community Supported Agriculture where a local community makes a financial pledge to support a local farm.

3) Enabling Change

The charity represents and works with farmers, growers and businesses that can provide a practical change in terms of making change happen on the ground. They are providing technical support and advice to farmers and businesses through their Soil Association Certification. They are also working to improve consumer understanding of organic principles to ensure vision, integrity and trust at the core of their certification process and that it is understood by anyone purchasing a product which carries their symbol.

• The Certification allows the charity to award organic certifications to farms and businesses
• Local groups to celebrate organic food, run educational community events, organise food festivals and grow organic produce
• Aim to protect the countryside by acquiring and managing farmland sustainability
• The Food for Life Catering Mark which encourages caterers to make progress towards more local, seasonal and organic ingredients
• Provide an Apprenticeship scheme with an organic farmer or grower
• Provide courses from bee-keeping to willow weaving

This charity mostly looks at Ethical issues in foods rather than textiles, however there is a link with the farmers in terms of innovative farming. This links in the way that crops such as cotton crops need to be less harmful towards the environment, animals and humans. There are solutions and ideas that need to be provided in order to change the way these crops are farmed in order to provide much healthier lifestyles.

Reference: http://www.soilassociation.org/

Organic and Eco fashion

Organic fashion is the term used for clothing/accessories that are made with minimum use of chemicals which in term has limited impact on the environment. 

Eco fashion is the term used for any clothing, fabrics or accessories that have been manufactured in an environmentally conscious way.

Organic and recycled clothing as well as eco fabrics mean that environmentally friendly fabrics are now a more viable alternative to conventional fabric.

Organic Fashion:

There is a difference between garments made from organic cotton and ‘organic garments’. 

Garment made from organic cotton: Garments which state ‘made from organic cotton', may not be 'organic garments'. This means only the cotton used has been produced without harmful chemicals, pesticides, or toxic dyes and has been certified. It does not take into account any parts added to the garments such as zips, buttons, trim fabric etc.

Organic Garment: The whole garment must carry a certification stamp which means that the fabric and all its accessories and trims have been assessed: Organic Garment. 

Even with certified organic garments however, a small percentage of non organic products are allowed and confusingly, the ratio of non organic materials permitted within an ‘organic garment’ varies between certifying bodies.

The Soil Association has some of the most strictest rules with only 5% of non organic materials including accessories being permitted. The 5% leeway is important as it allows both greater versatility such as zips and buttons being added. Also, if a fabric is combined with a small amount of lycra, it allows stretch and makes it more resistant to tears- and the use of nylon thread means that the stitching is less likely to snap and the garment will last longer.

Some Eco Fabrics:

*Hemp: 

Hemp can be grown easily without any chemical pesticide use. When blended with organic cotton a soft, elastic fabric results. When blended with silk a smooth luxurious cloth is created, which drapes easily.

*Linen, Organic Wool & Wild Silk:

Linen, organic wool and wild silk are alternatives to other natural fibres which are produced with chemicals

Some Eco-labels:

*Oeko-Tex Standard 100:

This standard assesses the chemical usage and handling, water usage and disposal, exhaust air production, dust and noise generation, energy usage, general workplace conditions and requires an environmental management system to be in place. Oeko-tex 100 standard is now mandatory in several European countries.

*European Eco-label for Textile Products:

This assesses a limited use of substances harmful to the environment, limited substances harmful to health, reduced water and air pollution, shrink resistance and colour.

*Global Organic Textile Standards:

There is now a Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) which resulted when a number of certification and standard bodies formed a working group. This group is working towards bringing their respective labels under one umbrella, thus making it less confusing for the consumer.

Reference: http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/organic-eco-fashion

Problematic clothing/processes.

Problematic clothing materials/processes:

*Nylon and Polyester. These are made from petrochemicals which are very polluting and contribute to global warming. They are also non-biodegradable, making them difficult to dispose of.
The manufacturing of Nylon releases Nitrous Oxide into the atmosphere, a greenhouse gas 310x stronger than Carbon Dioxide.

*Viscose. An artificial fibre made from wood pulp which is treated with toxic chemicals such as Caustic Soda and Sulphuric Acid.

*Non Organic Cotton. This fabric uses more pesticide per cotton plant than any other crop in the world. This leads to serious illness and even death for cotton farmers. The chemicals also affect the local eco systems killing certain types of plants and animals.

*Wool. This also uses hazardous chemicals in Sheep dips which is linked with illness amongst sheep farmers.

*Certain Dyes. Around the world, garments are dyed or bleached using toxic chemicals without proper precautions, this then affects the workers and flow into sewers and rivers which damages the local ecosystems.

*All Pollycotton is treated with the toxic chemical, formaldehyde

“While organic farming is more difficult, it saves lives from not using pesticides. We no longer have debt problems. Income is all profit at the end of season. Land and soil are preserved.” – Farmer Gera Paul, Benin

This highlights just a few of the key sources which have major impact on the environment and people. The processes are just so toxic and it makes me wonder why. Considering how advanced technology is these days, why can't a more eco and organic way of creating fabrics have been found yet? This then makes me think about Biomimicary.

Reference: http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/organic-eco-fashion

What is Ethical Fashion?

I found an interesting page on the V&A website asking the question What is Ethical Fashion?

Ethical Fashion covers a wide range of issues from working conditions, exploitation, fair trade, sustainable production, the environment and animal welfare.

It is the high street clothing companies that account for a massive proporation of Western retail. With globalisation, materials and labour can be used overseas to keep the costs low. Industrialised methods of growing cotton also allow fabric to be produced quickly and cheaply in large quantities. The saving is passed onto the customer providing low prices on the high street. This also then makes the clothing 'disposable' which provides us with another issue of sustainability.

Issues around ethical fashion:
*serious concerns about exploitative working conditions in factories
*Child workers and exploited adults can be subject to violence and abuse including; forced overtime, cramped and unhygienic working conditions, bad food, low pay.
*Cotton grown using 22.5% of the worlds insecticides and 10% of the worlds pesticides can be dangerous for the environment and for the farmers that grow it.
*Textile practises aren't entirely sustainable doing damage to the immediate enviroment. E.g. the Aral Sea in central Asia has shrunk to 15% of it's former volume due to it's water being used for cotton production and dying.
*Chemicals that textiles are treated with can be toxic to the environment. The most dangerous are; lead, nickel, chromium IV, aryl amines, phthalates and formaldehyde
*Low costs and disposable fashion mean landfills and incinerators are being increasingly filled and used. (The UK alone throws away 1 million tonnes of clothing each year)
*Animals are farmed to supply fur for the fashion industry. Stella McCartney is someone who is against this and does not use leather or fur in her designs.

Above are a list of the key issues that High street brands need to address. Particularly in terms of this 'disposable fashion'. From trying to create cheap clothing, all these other issues are arriving and is it really worth it? Most of the time cheap clothing isn't better for consumers anyway, it falls apart within a wash. Wouldn't it make more sense to create quality in clothing and spare the lives of slaves alongside this?

Reference: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/w/what-is-ethical-fashion/

How many slaves work for you?

slaveryfootprint.org is an interesting website. There is a quiz to find out 'How Many Slaves Work for You'. 

The quiz takes into account usual daily things which you probably do not think about: How many tops you own, how many shoes, how much dairy you eat etc. At the end, you discover how many slaves work for you and where they are from. You can then get more information about the different extremities of slavery in the different areas.
For example:
Brazil: Over 25,000 Brazilian men and boys are enslaved on cattle ranches, logging camps and mining camps, sugar-cane plantations and large farms producing corn, cotton, soy and charcoal. Raw materials from slavery include: Brick, Castor Oil, Coffee, Corn, Cotton, Emerald, Iron, Pig Iron, Soybeans, Silicon

I had the result of 34 slaves working for me, it is quite surprising to see the results that come up, it's worth having a look at.

Sweatshops linked to Primark, 2009

In 2009 it was found by a BBC reporter that Factory workers for Primark were working 12hours a day for £3.50 an hour. Primark's code of conduce promises workers a living wage.

Primark said they were "extremely concerned" about the situation and started to carry out their own investigation. In 2008 Primark made £233m profit, in comparison there is no acceptable reason for their factory staff to be suffering unethical conditions. 

Their website claimed to be "delivering fast fashion without breaking its ethical code or exploiting its workers"

TNS was one of Primark's biggest suppliers of knitwear and 2/3rds of TNS's orders are for Primark. BBC reporter Zahid Sarwar went under cover and found the following:

*She was employed without even being asked her name  
*There was no heating and workers had to where their coats in 'bitterly cold temperatures'. *There was only one toilet for both sexes as there was an unrepaired toilet.
*One man was an asylum seeker, working illegally for three years.
*Another mans Visa had expired 8 yeas ago.
*Others were cheating the benefit system, claiming sickness benefits while working

Overall, there was an 'intense work culture where employees admitted to being under pressure' and TNS insisted that the allegations were untrue or fabricated.

TNS was also found to have sent out work to smaller factories in Manchester which were in worse conditions. Primark tells its suppliers that they do not have the right to actually subcontract work. Fashion Waves was one of these smaller factories.

Fashion Waves findings:
*Corridors blocked with boxes
*Kitchen so dirty, workers ate sitting on piles of Primark clothing
*£3 an hour wages
*Illegal workers

Neil Kearney from the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation said the following:
"This is the importation of third world working conditions into Europe"
"There's no such thing as cheap clothing, someone has to pay"

I think there is a lot that could be done to stop this. As a highstreet company, Primark could itself enforce quality control by ensuring the factories it uses are checked regularly, making sure they are applying to the standards of work Primark 'claim' to set.

Reference: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/7824291.stm
Image: www.ptglobal.ner

Earth Positive

I came across the website www.earthpositive.se which gives so much useful information about how to make a 'greener' company.

Their mission:

'To inspire and implement solutions to this climate crisis. The apparel/clothing industry has long been one of tthe world's most environmentally and socially damaging industries; EarthPositive has a single aim, which is to prove that it is possible to produce (cotton) clothing without any detrimental effects to the Earth's soil or water, its inhabitants, whether they be animals, plants or people, or to it's climate."

This should be very inspiring for any high-street company to invest in. Why can't it be done?

The company is using Organic and ethical standards as the starting point to try and eliminate the emissions of green-house gases as much as currently possible. 
The plan to do this through 'low emission' organic farming and achieving a Carbon Neutral status in the manufacturing stages.

The company are partners with Replanting the Rainforest supporting this long term project in the Northern state of Sau Paulo in Brazil. The project is run by Open World Foundation and aims to replant an entire Rain Forest fauna to protect

Earth Positive have also got a new collection which is produced under the Global Organic Textile Standards and made with 100% organic cotton using renewable energy from wind and solar power.

From what I have seen from this small company, high-street companies could do something as simple as becoming partners and supporting a great project, such as to rebuild a Rain Forest in order to give something back from the damaging pollution created from factories whilst producing clothing. 



Image and Text references: http://www.earthpositive.se/index.html